Branding and Merchandising

layout for different type of labels 

ideas on presentation boards

Ideas  

When i need ideas or inspiration inspiration inspiration inspiration inspiration inspiration  inspiration inspiration  inspiration  at WGSN,  the lay out an attention to details are amazing.

Working Progess

Im working on mt final ideas looking at different ways of developing the ideas.. by deconstruction of a tailored jacket .  

Creme ..

This colour is a prefect match to my colour , even it a tuxedo suit for wedding, i think this would look amazing colour for a bridal collection.. 

colour trend

i have been researching colour trend for 14/15 

A trip to the V & A

A trip to the V& A .. 

There was a lot of use information on italaian fashion.. i will need to go bakc and revisit again.. 

The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945 - 2014: About the Exhibition

Valentino posing with models in Rome, July 1967. Courtesy of The Art Archive / Mondadori Portfolio / Marisa Rastellini.

5 April - 27 July 2014  

This major exhibition is a glamorous, comprehensive look at Italian Fashion from the end of the Second World War to the present day. The story is explored through the key individuals and organisations that have contributed to its reputation for quality and style. It includes both womens and menswear to highlight the exceptional quality of techniques, materials and expertise for which Italy has become renowned. 

The exhibition examines Italy's dramatic transition from post-war ruins to the luxury paraded in the landmark ‘Sala Bianca’ catwalk shows held in Florence in the 1950s, which propelled Italian fashion onto the world stage. During the 1950s and '60s the many Hollywood films that were shot on location in Italy had an enormous impact on fashion as stars like Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor became style ambassadors for Italian fashion, fuelling a keen international appetite for luxurious clothing made in Italy. On display are around 100 ensembles and accessories by leading Italian fashion houses including Simonetta, Pucci, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino, Gucci, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Fendi, Prada and Versace, through to the next generation of fashion talent. 

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Return to Luxury

Fashion show in Sala Bianca, 1955. Archivio Giorgini. Photo by G.M. Fadigati © Giorgini Archive, Florence.

In 1945, Italy’s post-war government aimed to reinvigorate a country weakened in spirit and in physical and financial ruin. With American aid provided through the Marshall Plan, the swift retooling of Italian factories alongside efforts by the country’s many entrepreneurs helped fashion become a cornerstone of Italy’s post-war recovery.

In 1951, Giovanni Battista Giorgini launched Italy’s first internationally recognised fashion shows. The following year, he secured the use of the Sala Bianca or ‘White Hall’, an opulent, chandelier-lit gallery in Florence’s Pitti Palace.

As clothing designers and textile manufacturers gradually resumed trading, their stylish designs responded to a hunger for glamour after years of wartime deprivation. Italian high fashion and fine tailoring became popular exports.

Tailoring

Woman's coat and dress, André Laug, 1960s. Museum no. T.327 to B-1978. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Enthusiasm for Italian tailoring – admired for being light, unstructured and sleek increased in the decades after the Second World War.

Italy’s reputation for tailored clothing developed internationally thanks to popular images of stylishly dressed Italian actors. Marcello Mastroianni’s trim suits in the 1960 film 'La Dolce Vita' did much to popularise the Italian suit worldwide. Both bespoke garments (made to measure for an individual client) and the increasingly popular ready-made suits were adopted by a growing international clientele.

A well-tailored suit requires precisely cut fabric and exact fit, along with fine finishing details. The smallest design elements, such as the shape of a pocket or sleeve, often differed from region to region. A Neapolitan suit could be distinguished from one produced in Rome.

Made in Italy

Woman's striped suit, Alberto Fabiani, 1967. Museum no. T.322&A-1978. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Research on techincal bespoke tailoring methods

One thing i love about tailoring is the methods of working on a pattern 

I own a bespoke tailoring book  and it show alots different methods on sharpe and style 

Bespoke tailoring

Interview with Darren Beaman

1

June 7, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I’m 46 – Master Tailor and Educator, Savile Row-apprenticed from the age of 16 yrs. I am happily married and have one son. I have fostered children in the past and consider doing this again in the future. They are fully supportive of my work and commitment to tailoring and training as they can see the happiness it brings me. I didn’t know much about my dad apart from he was in the building trade and wanted me to follow in his footsteps, which is something a lot of dads hope for. It was my mum who brought me up in the east end of London and the person I spent a lot of time with. My mother was a skilled sample machinist for Turnbull and Asser, which is probably where I get my passion for fabrics and construction from.

Whilst at school I used to have a Saturday job in Mile End, working with clothes, although it wasn’t until I met a tailor from Savile Row and was curious about the trade, that I was inspired to approach The Row for an apprenticeship. When I turned 16, I started at one end of The Row and knocked on the doors asking them to train me. I ended up being told “we have nothing at present, but go to such and such and ask for…tell them I sent you.” I ended up meeting a lot of established and world-renowned cutters and tailors doing this, even though I didn’t realise it at the time! Eventually, when I got to Anderson and Sheppard, the gentleman I spoke to asked if I was there for an apprenticeship, gave me £5  fare for the journey home and said “come back tomorrow, you have an apprenticeship.” I trained under Patrick Davey and spent many good years working on high-quality garments for the rich and famous, royalty and the elite. At one point I was in charge of training a young man who later became the legendary fashion designer Alexander (Lee) McQueen.

I was lucky enough to learn a massive range of skills from a world class leading tailoring house, techniques passed down through generations of skilled professional artisans through the years, who have passed through the doors of Anderson and Sheppard. Knowledge, however, is gathered from everywhere, from the errors you make in experimenting, sampling, testing, the people you listen to, blogs and books you read, the transfer of knowledge from other experts and enthusiasts. Information is all around us and learning and improving is a continuous process.

I prefer a very casual style, particularly when actually constructing garments. However, when meeting clients I have to look the part, and wear a perfectly fitted and crafted suit. It is all about making impressions and impact! With RTW makers work, I favour the designs and work of Paul Smith. His life story and Witty Britishness generates a fresh and classic style which is infectious. A fine example of British heritage and marketed successfully around the globe, a true inspiration to the youth of today.

I decided to set my own company up many years ago, designing and making bespoke-tailored garments and have built up a loyal customer base and a reputation for high quality craftsmanship. I have had ups and downs like most companies, particularly at the beginning when I followed the wrong business advice, but when you are new to this kind of thing, everything becomes complicated and the admin side takes up a big part of your working time. Savile Row training is a joint venture with David Morrish, an award-winning designer, lecturer in fashion design at higher education level in the UK, and a fellow of the higher education academy.

We discussed the idea of expanding the training aspect of tailoring after receiving lots of requests from individuals and companies, whether it is about the teaching of specific techniques, improving company resources, quality or even training staff on how to take body measurements and adapt clothing for fitment. So far, with the help of social media, it has been well-received and created a lot of interesting opportunities. Our blog,savilerowtraining.co.uk, receives many hits each day, with a lot of interested professionals emailing with enquiries. The fundamental and crucial aspect of our business has to be to reinforce quality in order to uphold the ethos and philosophy of Savile Row. I firmly believe quality should be the prime focus and at the heart of every business and should never be sacrificed in order to cut costs or save money.

Design ideas

I am currently expolring ideas .. 

i my designs are based on Lace and trimings 

Lace suit

This image inspire me to develop more ideas on my current designs ..

White wedding suit

Naliea customers are focus on women who want to wear handcraft white wedding suit..

With the current trend  in the gay relationship, i am design a brand for women who wish not to wear a traditional wedding dress.

The tuxedo for women is back - as demonstrated by Nigella Lawson

I found an article on tuxedo for women .. interesting

Want to show men who wears the trousers? The tuxedo for women is back - as demonstrated by Nigella Lawson

By PETRONELLA WYATT

PUBLISHED: 01:45, 29 October 2013 | UPDATED: 18:38, 3 November 2013

 
 
 
 

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Looking at myself in the mirror, the figure that stares back is one I do not recognise. My full lipped-mouth, which usually wobbles tremulously, has become determined, while my eyes, ordinarily demure, have a raffish look.

The sexual seesaw has up-ended and a transfer of power has occurred. I have become a predator and, although readers may disagree, I think I am an ingratiating one.

Dressed in a man’s dinner jacket, a sharp bow tie and wide trousers, I am not quite the legendary actress Marlene Dietrich, but I might pass as a Dietrich impersonator on Bournemouth Pier.

And the reason for my transformation? The tuxedo for women is back — as highlighted by no less a contemporary icon than Nigella Lawson.

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Nigella appeared at once severely lovely and a trifle reminiscent of Oscar Wilde in a man's dinner jacket

The recently divorced TV cook was pictured in a man’s dinner jacket — her figure, redolent of fecundity and baking, entirely concealed — and her Lady Godiva hair was brushed back in short waves. Miss Lawson appeared at once severely lovely and a trifle reminiscent of Oscar Wilde.

Nigella has always favoured clothes which enhance her ample figure and give her bosom the elevation of the Forth Bridge. Now, she seemed determined on a new, harder image.

This was a reassertion of her sexual independence and strength after months of heartbreak, and the humiliation of being pictured arguing with former husband Charles Saatchi, who had his hands clasped around her throat.

This time, the pictures said, Nigella will eat men for breakfast, as opposed to cook it for them. Nothing could be further from her past incarnation as a traditional male fantasy.

For most of my life, I have also been strictly a female female. To paraphrase Rodgers and Hammerstein, I drool over dresses made of lace. I adore being dressed in something frilly: I enjoy being a girl.

 

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My wardrobe bursts with gossamer confections, my lingerie drawers overspill with silk. Trouser suits? I’ve never been one for wearing the pants. Even my jeans are tightly-waisted and cropped, in the style of a 1950s starlet.

I wouldn’t have dreamt of donning a tuxedo, were it not for the fact that they are suddenly back in fashion, appearing on catwalks and in High Street stores. 

Celebrities certainly aren’t immune to the trend. As well as Nigella, usually bland actress Gwyneth Paltrow was recently pictured looking surprisingly edgy modelling a tuxedo — with nothing underneath — for Hugo Boss, while model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne, the queen of insouciance, has also stepped out in a sleek black number. 

Of course this isn’t the first time the tuxedo has been popular.

The history of such Sapphic dressing goes back to Berlin in the 1920s. It was in this louchest of capitals that lesbianism declared itself publicly for the first time. Women in trousers strolled hand in hand in the city’s biggest park, the Tiergarten.

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The tuxedo is not an easy look to pull off, requiring height and a slender build, says Petronella

The English writer Christopher Isherwood, whose novel Goodbye to Berlin became the film Cabaret, drew on Weimar Republic nightlife to create his bisexual, cross-dressing heroine Sally Bowles. 

Then there was Marlene Dietrich, a former cabaret performer who went to Hollywood. She openly declared her disdain for convention in the 1930 film Morocco, with Gary Cooper.

In a scene that became a worldwide sensation, Dietrich wore a man’s dinner jacket, top hat and an expression of bold defiance.

Her chanteuse character finishes her performance on stage and then walks over to a table. Ignoring the smitten Cooper, she plants a kiss on the lips of a pretty girl.

For, culturally and politically, clothes maketh the man, or woman, not manners. Throughout history men have worn clothes that allow them to control their wives and paramours, while those restricting corsets, lacing and hoop ensured that middle and upper-class women remained decorative and useless. It was not merely for reasons of comfort that the Suffragettes removed their corsets. 

Thus, when I saw Nigella’s picture I was intrigued. The tuxedo is not an easy look to pull off, requiring height and a slender build. 

Tuxedos should appear fluid, not waisted or figure-hugging. Look at the work of Yves Saint Laurent, who invented Le Smoking for women in the Sixties. A tight tuxedo is a contradiction in terms. 

Another taboo is unsuitable shoes. You cannot totter in a tux, you have to stroll or saunter.
Then, if your crisp white handkerchief falls from your pocket you will have no trouble retrieving it, for when you are wearing men’s clothes, men’s rules apply. No one will pick up items you have dropped or open doors for you. Handbagging is out. Pockets are in. Keys go in one trouser pocket, and wallet in another.

Nor can you wear your hair long and tumbling. You will only look like an ageing rocker at Elton John’s White Tie and Tiara Ball. Or a drag queen.

But we all need signals that explain our gender, whatever out sexual bent, so the scales are balanced, traditionally by make-up. No-holds-barred, vintage Hollywood make-up is required to carry off a tuxedo, not namby pamby naturalism. Nails and lips must be painted jungle red. Eyes should be emphasised and lashes curled and thickened.

Every photograph of Dietrich or Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn contrasts their mannish clothes with a exaggeratedly feminine face. 

While keeping hair short, create soft waves that form a halo about your head. As your whole body is covered you cannot rely on your bust, bottom or legs to attract attention.

I normally keep my hands and shoulders still but, in a tux, I snap my manicured fingers at (for once) obedient waiters and use my eyes to convey attraction or rejection.

Strangely, I also find myself talking less. Men, generally, are more taciturn than women. Moreover, shyness can make me talk too much and too loud. In men’s clothes, I find the confidence not to speak until I have something I want to say. 

The point, as Misses Dietrich and Lawson would agree, is to look as if you don’t care. Life may slap you round the face, or take you by the throat, but if you appear insouciant as you slouch at tuxedo junction, no one will know you’re hurting inside.

Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2478687/The-tuxedo-women--demonstrated-Nigella-Lawson.html#ixzz308W1I5E0
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Black-tie guide with Savile Row's Henry Poole - GQ.COM (UK)

A black-tie invitation from Henry Poole

Vera Wang - Lace

LACE.

My collection will be based on Lace so here is some on favouirte wedding dress from Vera Wang.

Balenciaga (Couture) 1940 Dinner Dress

Balenciaga 

 My project is based on Balenciaga and his master of tailoring in 1940s

i also lookd at his ress collection, which is speechless.

Inspriation boards ideas

I am thinkign of different ways of lay out my deisgn board and here is some ideas.

Tuxedo inspiration

Tuxedo Trends-

Oscars 2014: Julia Roberts und Amy Adams in "The Hollywood Reporter - Actresses Issue"

Page by Mandi Villa - The Power Suit — 26 Celebs Show How to Wear It For Work and Play!

Black, white, and chic all over, tuxedo dressing is hot for day and night. Whether you go traditional with a tuxedo jacket (every woman should own one!) or tuxedo-inspired with a bow-tied

working on my mood board

Inspiration imagery

Just something to think about when it come to design concept ...  what is the purpose of this how come ? .. what is the beauty of this image ?!  . 

Fabric research part 2

Visited Soho today after fashion lesson, have discovered amazing colour palette . This will be in my fashion research book, Also collected some fabric samples for my research and development ! 

Fabric researching

Currently still looking for different type of laces for the collections however, Holland and Sherry have helped me to look at different type of wools and cashmere that would goes well with the new bridal brand. My brand will based on the beauty of tailoring ! 

 

Inspirational ideas

Third week in to the new bridal label , i have looked at different concepts and inspirational ideas to start my research on . I have done some research on ideas and colours research and looked at WgSn for develpment on colour trends 

Research mode stage 2

I have done some research on my new brand " Naliea " i also found out that there are a few bespoke bridal  company in london , which is very interesting to focus on ! Also have done my SBU for my brand ! Naliea is specialising in Lace and i have done some research on laces and have contracted the company that supplies excellent quality laces 

 

Trends Research

I have started on my trends research, i looked at vougue, ellie, weconnectfashion.com for more information however i am still waiting for WGSN for the trial users .